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After
3 hours on the ferry we land in Lauvvik and from there its only a
short drive to Bersagel, a small climbing area with more than 100 routes between 5b and 8a+ in dark and fine granite.
The weather has turned nice and we spend a great afternoon climbing in
the sun in solitude. Only one Spanish climber comes around, and gives
us lots of information about the climbing areas further north. The next day is
sunny, but our forearms are so pumped, we rather have a rest day. So we
drive to Stavanger and
report our stolen front number plate to the police.
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Lizard in Bersagel
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The next day we get up early, because the road is going to be closed at 7
a.m. due to road construction. So we arrive in Bersagel before the sun
hits the
wall.
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Bersagel
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In the afternoon Debbie walks to Preikestolen with hundereds of other
tourists. The hiking destination no. 1 in Norway. The views are
tremendous. But this isn't unkown and after weeks of bad weather there are many people at the lookout 650 m above Lysefjord.
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Debbie high above Lysefjord
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Preikestolen
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Marvik
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On the next morning we enjoy the solitude in Marvik. A small climbing
area with about 30 routes in dark Phyllite with long moves between good
holds. The warm-ups on the left hand side aren't very good, but the
main sector with many pitches between 6b and 7c is one of our favorites.
The same evening we continue over the plateau of Berdalen and below the glaciars of the Hardangervidda National Park. From there we take the tourist route along Hardangerfjord to Bergen. But we
don't spend much time in the city and drive further west to the islands. The
weather here is much better with more sunshine and less rain. There are
many smaller climbing areas out here, some of them are the best on this
trip.
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We spend the first day in Syltøy,
where there are 30 routes on an impressive 30 m high and slightly overhanging
wall right above the sea. The routes are between 6a and 8a on good
granit. I do "Titanofestivalen" on sight, my first 7c after many years.
In the afternoon we drive the short distance to Furunkulose to meet
Norwegian friends. Furunkulose is a small (only 15 meters tall) wall,
but the rock is very good and there are 25 routes between 6b and 7c+, all of them very pumpy. Erlend left his draws on "En glad laks" 7b for us - what a service.
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Rainy morning in Bergen
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The following days we spend with Siren, a good friend from old times in
Southern France. Outside its raining cats and dogs for 24 hours
straight. But on the second day we go to Loddefjord to check it
out.
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Loddefjord
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The wall is very steep and stays dry even today. There are 50+
routes but none is easier than 7a+, and there are many routes
between 8a and 8b. This is not our favorite cliff in Norway due to many mosquitoes (knots in
Norwegian) and the noise from traffic and airport.
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Mosquito pest in
Loddefjord
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Old trading houses in Bergen
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After a day of sight seeing in the old city of Bergen we drive back
to the sunny and quiet islands further west. The next morning we are on
our own in Hjallaveggen with 40 routes between 5c and 8a. The rock is very good, if a little smooth. 4 hours later the sun hits the wall and we spend the rest of the day on the beach.
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Quiet bay on Øygarden
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After 3 weeks on the road I need an extra rest day and hold Debbie's rope on Furunkulose
(7a+) and in Loddefjord (this time without knots).
The countryside is covered with blueberries. Debbie collects lots and we have a blueberrie pancake party where ever we can. On the last day in Bergen we climb again in Syltøy. In the afternoon dark rain clouds move in, and we leave the islands for the Northern Fjordland.
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